Shimanami Kaido Cycling:
Hiroshima to the Tobishima Islands
Easily into his 80’s, the wonderfully unkempt driver comes blasting over the bridge in his rickety old kei-truck,
with a beaming smile and a massive collection of shiny new bikes.
The Shimanami Kaido is the quintessential Japan cycle, and a statement of intent for how inclusive bike routes could be done around the world. For confident cyclists, the remote Tobishima Kaido offers a more advanced island trail heading west and finally the Sazanami Kaido takes you back to the entry point of the route.
So you’ve been cycling for a couple of hours now. You have one more to the inn for the evening. You probably should have stopped at the last bench to give the legs a rest. Then you turn a corner and there it is. This incredible sea view and the most perfect sandy beach to enjoy it from. You could almost pitch a tent right here if there wasn’t a lovely bath, the layered seafood meal, and the overbearingly friendly Okamisan propreietress of the inn, waiting for you just a little further.
But you’ll stay here an hour or two in the sea breeze anyway.
The only experience along on the Shimanami Kaido I have had which I could truly call a mishap was of my own doing and turned out to be one of my most cherished memories of the route. I once took an overly ambitious curb and ever so slightly bent the front wheel of the brand new bike I was borrowing. I called the rental place and apologetically explained what had happened; they said no problem and asked could I see somewhere safe nearby to wait at while they came out to help (for a very fair fee).
The Shimanami Kaido has mercifully frequent cafes, particularly next to the bridges between each island, so I headed back to the one nearby. A friendly chat with the local owner about his roasting technique (I can attest it worked) could have gone on much longer, but then he arrives. Easily into his 80’s, the wonderfully unkempt driver comes blasting over the bridge in his rickety old kei-truck, with a beaming smile and a collection of replacement bikes. I finish my coffee and greet him with an apologetic bow, only for the driver to apologise to me for the wait.
That’s island cycling in Japan. That’s the Shimanami Kaido.
Beginning from a picturesque seaside town in Hiroshima on Japan’s main island of Honshu, the Shimanami Kaido heads south passing over six scenic islands, along well-maintained, predominantly flat cycle paths, before reaching Ehime on rural island Shikoku.
The 60~150km journey can be undertaken by most cyclists over one to three days, with the option of a shorter day-trip loop out from Onomichi by road bike or E-bike. Arriving into Imabari, it’s possible to explore Shikoku, return along the Shimanami, or head further west by bike.
The west cycle route, The Tobishima Kaido is another 45~100km of island-hopping, crossing the Aki Nada Islands over another seven bridges, and offers even more remote coastal scenery and excellently preserved island culture, for something a little deeper. Recommended for more confident cyclists, this can add an extra day or two to the trip.
Finally leaving the Tobishima Kaido by ferry to return to mainland Honshu, you have the option to explore the rural villages further in Hiroshima before returning to Onomichi by bike or train.
The final cycle back to Onomichi is along the Sazanami Kaido, which is the third route of the Setouchi Triangle, connecting with the Tobishima Kaido to the south and the Shimanami Kaido to the east. Along busier main roads from Hiroshima, this final 40-80km stretch is best enjoyed by completionists looking for an extra day of cycling.
The best part is that it’s easy to tailor the distance covered using conveniently frequent local ferries, offering days of 5~10km for those looking to immerse themselves in the local island culture, and up to 80~100km for those looking to explore the further reaches of the remotest islands. If you give us an idea of your group’s preferred level, we’ll tailor the schedule to match.
What makes Shimanami Kaido Cycling and the Tobishima Islands special
‣ Beautiful sea views along dedicated cycling paths and island roads
‣ A good mix of engaging local islands and vibrant towns
‣ Delicious, locally sourced seafood and varied regional cuisine
‣ World-class infrastructure and varied bike options for all cyclists
‣ Delightful traditional inns or comfortable western-style hotels
Our recommendations
‣ Suggested duration: from three to five days in total
‣ Distance covered: up to 450km (from 5~100km per day)
‣ Trip level: All levels from beginner through to expert
‣ Activity style: Dedicated cycle paths and quiet roads
‣ Hotel style: Traditional B&B, hotels, or a mix of both
‣ $250 deposit (suggested budget from $750 per person)
Our Shimanami Kaido Cycling and Tobishima Model Itinerary
Day 1 – Preparing for the islands
Arrive at the entry point to the cycle with a stay in this relaxed port town, taking in sublime sea views out over the cycle route before a local dinner of noodles or seafood.
The scenic coastal train to the beginning of the cycle gives just a small hint at the emotive views in store over the next few days. Arrive early to explore this romantically nostalgic town, featuring old-fashioned shopping arcades and Showa-period coffee shops and eateries.
Spend the afternoon exploring the quiet hilltop neighborhoods with postcard views out over the Setouchi Inland sea where the cycle begins from tomorrow, or borrow bicycles early and take in the wider town.
Overnight in one of the comfortable hotels or ryokan in the town center this evening, with dinner options of various local dishes including noodles or freshly caught seafood.
Leave mainland Honshu and begin the Shimanami, taking in quiet island life, maritime culture and snapshot-perfect sea views from sandy beaches.
After obligatory pastries and coffee for breakfast, pick up bikes to suit your style of ride and travel even further back in time to the first of today’s islands via a short ferry ride.
The ride today covers the three main northern islands, with varied options for beginners up to veterans. Enjoy an overnight stay on one of the islands along the cycle route.
Cycle to the end of the Shimanami Kaido via the main blue cycle route, or lesser travelled backroads, each with excellent panoramas out over the neighboring islands.
The final stretch along the Shimanami covers the southern portion of the Shimanami before re-entering the more populated town of Imabari on Shikoku Island.
This laid-back area is considered a magnet for the more bohemian looking to escape the salaryman trap of Osaka or Tokyo. It’s quieter shopping streets provide a good base to recharge before heading continuing along the smaller island west towards the Tobishima Kaido, or south to see more of Shikoku.
Follow the remotest of the Setouchi cycling routes, with a superb island-hopping odyssey to the west.
Heading on from the Shimanami and Shikoku Island, the Tobishima Kaido covers some of arguably the most beautiful scenery in the area, and certainly some of its remotest islands. Take in the local culture at your own pace, overnighting close to the end of the trail.
Back on mainland Honshu, take in a picturesque traditional town before finishing the route by bike or train.
Take the final morning to explore a carefully preserved traditional town. For those heading on by train, the local sake brewery is a highlight, and for the completionists looking for one more cycle, the Sazanami route takes in busier, but no less scenic coastal roads back to Onomichi.
Things to keep in mind on the Shimanami Kaido Cycling and Tobishima Islands
The limited accommodations can sometimes fill up, so booking 3-6 months in advance is recommended.
The Shimanami Kaido is best enjoyed from milder March to May and September to November. July and August are possible for cyclists comfortable in daytime highs above 30°C.
Although not typically recommended, please inquire if you wish to travel in winter, the rainy season in June, or peak holidays in including Golden Week in early May.
Up to three days along the Shimanami Kaido is suitable for almost anyone comfortable on a bike, but bike rentals have a minimum height restriction of 155cm.
Due to the quality of infrastructure and convenient ferries connecting more islands. It is possible to cycle from as little as 5km, and up to as much as 150km each day to suit your preference. Ebikes can be rented for single excursions; please ask if you have any questions.
Support on the additional trails is more limited, meaning these routes are better suited to more confident cyclists, capable of 40km and up per day.
This trip begins and ends in eastern Hiroshima, and is easily accessed from Hiroshima city, Shikoku or Kansai (including Kyoto, Osaka and Nara). Tokyo and eastern Japan are also possible with some additional travel times and costs.
Luggage transfer between hotels is possible along the Shimanami Kaido for an additional fee. For longer trips, a shuttle service on alternate nights is also possible, meaning splitting luggage over two bags, or using a daypack on nights in between.
1. How long should I spend on the islands?
The answer is simple and complicated – the travel time to reach the islands means at least two days is a must, with three to five being optimal. Even more is certainly possible, but particularly if this is your first trip to Japan, weighing up what you will miss elsewhere is also important.
2. Can I visit the region without cycling?
Yes, absolutely. For those looking for a gentler experience on foot, or those less confident on bikes, the route is also possible by ferry. The experience changes quite a bit if traveling in this way, so please inquire for options and recommendentations.
3. I read that a support vehicle can provide replacement bikes – does the vehicle follow us for the trip?
While a permanent support vehicle can be provided at certain times of year, apart from for larger groups, this is generally not necessary or recommended.
In the unlikely event that an issue occurs with the bikes, each of the bigger islands has a repair shop, and in a pinch, it may also be possible for the rental company to drive out and provide an alternative bike.
4. Where do we meet you?
All of our trips are unguided (also known as self-guided), meaning that it is not actually necessary to meet in person. We will be happy to provide an online orientation to get you ready for the trip. Please inquire if you require a guide to join the group on the cycle.
5. I am going to Hiroshima tomorrow, can you help plan my trip?
Typically we recommend planning a cycle well in advance, ideally three to six months before starting, or even longer. However, we want you to have a safe trip and can point you in the right direction.
6. I am a traveling by myself – will I be okay?
We have supported many solo cyclists along the routes with fantastic, enjoyable adventures. The routes are well-maintained and checked regularly and you always have the emergency phone number of our support staff to provide assistance.
What we provide on the Shimanami Kaido Cycling route
‣ 2-4 nights at traditional B&B inns or western-style hotels
‣ All breakfasts (traditional dinners optional)
‣ Rental cycles (basic or proper road bikes – please enquire for E-bikes)
‣ Optional luggage transfer on the Shimanami Kaido
‣ Personalized schedule book with recommended timetable
‣ Detailed map book for navigation
‣ Orientation book for preparation
‣ Pre-trip and local support
‣ 3 days from $750
‣ 4 days from $990
‣ 5 days from $1195
(per person with twin share)
Hibi Travel was born from a love of local Japan.
We are a small, family-run team, with the aim of connecting visitors with remote communities on immersive, engaging adventures throughout Japan.
